AudioControlLC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter with AccuBASS Bass Restoration

I have a 2018 f150 with a b&o audio system and I havent found an interface that works seamlessly with it yet. This was a last resort for me and it works perfect. There are cheaper line output converters but not of this quality.I bout this 6 channel convertor and I am using it with a mono amp and 2 subwoofers.This device comes neatly packed, is well made, and comes with straightforward instructions. It has clear instructions to help you set the gain with ease. Without distortion and helps correct the bass roll off at higher volumes.If you need a line output convertor and have the budget for it, go with this or the 2 channel version.

I have this installed in my 2017 ram along with an LC2i because the truck has a seperate sub woofer line out. if your don't have a seperate line out for subs than this LOC is the only one you need. I was haveing horrible speaker pop when turning on the system and even louder when turning it off. I would get a pop from the door speakers than another pop from the sub. I tried everything to fix this issue, I called Audio Control several times and looked at their web site for guidence on how to fix the popping. It took an engineer buddy of mine to help me figure it out so I thought I would share this info with you because I know how annoying it is.So....to fix the popping; I used a remote wire to a cigarette lighter that turns on and off with the stereo, I ran that remote wire to the LC7i remote in and jumped it to the LC2i remote in ( once you do this you will have to bypass the GTO settings by removing the cover of the 7i to switch the GTO to off and switch the 2i jumber on the side, to bypas). I did not use the remote out on either LCs but rather straight from the remote in terminal to the amps remote signal port. the trick is to get every thing to turn on and off at the same time, this method achieves that.Hope this helps.

Great line out converter for anyone putting together a serious car audio system that intend to retain their stock radio. I used this for my Ford F-150 and just tucked it under the rear seat compartment. It handles my Pioneer D-Series 6x9 component speakers and my Pioneer 6.5 A-Series 4-way speakers which run a total of 380 watts RMS. Very clean sound with some interesting adjustments that can be made if you pull the faceplate off and play with the board inside. You can adjust grounding settings, which channels you use (and you can combine channels if you’d prefer) and control whether you want dedicated subwoofer channels or not. For the price I wish it came with EQ controls (or perhaps make the exact same unit with a 7+ band EQ component for an extra $30 or so). It would be nice to have that extra control in one unit as I’ll have to add a separate unit right now for more money and use up more space. But I get to keep my Ford SYNC 3 head unit and all that connects to it and that’s a decent deal. Right now I just have a 4-channel speaker system setup on it but intend to add some subs down the line for my underneath second row spot. What’s really cool is you don’t NEED to use the remote in or out connections if you have power coming into the speaker level inputs as it’ll detect the power and turn on automatically. It’s a cool device for ppl wanting to do some more nuanced installs with aftermarket amps and keep that low end that topically rolls off when you turn up the volume.

I installed this in a 2016 Mazda CX-5 to upgrade the rather muddy and disappointing factory system, entirely replacing all 9 factory speakers, including the 2 subwoofers in the doors. I used an additional external amplifier to drive the new subwoofers and kept the factory Bose amplifier to driver the remaining 7 speakers (the CX-5 has 2 subs). At first this setup sounded horrible due to what I believe was the factory head unit dropping off the bass as the volume increased even though I now had subwoofers that put the OEM subs to shame. Whatever was reaching the subwoofers was simply not a quality signal and the new Alpine amplifier was making matters worse. I decided to try this LC7i unit based on a recommendation from someone that had a higher end model of this. I hooked this up inline between the head unit and secondary Alpine amplifier that drives the subwoofers only. The result was vastly improved sound quality coming from the subwoofers as it returned the distorted signal coming from the factory head unit to a usable signal that the Alpine amp could cleanly use. I opted to keep the factory head unit simply because it's so integrated now it's not worth the hassle to upgrade the head unit. I suspect if I was to use this in some fashion to pass the front and rear speakers through it, it would improve my situation further, but for now the system is sounding very good and I am impressed with this unit. The external control to be able to easily control the bass signal is on my list of things to add and I think it will be a welcome additional. Would buy again.

Easy to connect and the GTO turn on works great on my F150. Like the box says, makes good sound great. I recommend getting the volume knob for channels 5 & 6 when connected to a sub amp.Possibly the most important tip for the DIY’er - Most factory systems have the most amount of bass in which to use. To take advantage of this connect the front channels to inputs 3 & 4 and the rears to 1 & 2. Just remember that 3 & 4 are front and that 1 & 2 are rear when connecting an amp and speakers so the fader works correctly.

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